I am not looking to get rich, but I would very much love to inspire people to give the hobby a go... you may get hook-knifed! For those who like to learn before they attempt, I have listed some books I recommend. There are also some tools you may need below. For more detailed how-to photos check out the tips tab.
I have acquired more than a few books on making spoons. These are my top 5 and have taken a few things away from each of these books. See below for more detailed descriptions of my top 3 picks.
From the novice to the moderate carver and beyond, this book is packed with good information. I actually read this well after I began carving and still picked up carving techniques I doubt I ever would have come up within on my own. The author (or in this case, translator) writes of carving techniques, tool maintenance, and involving yo
From the novice to the moderate carver and beyond, this book is packed with good information. I actually read this well after I began carving and still picked up carving techniques I doubt I ever would have come up within on my own. The author (or in this case, translator) writes of carving techniques, tool maintenance, and involving young future generations in the art of woodcraft. The illustrations were in black and white, but still very well-produced and informative. The book gives me yet another reason to visits Sweden: evidently it is socially acceptable in Sweden to carve in someone else's house if you get their permission! This may be dated information, but it is intriguing nonetheless.
I would recommend this book to anyone getting into carving, though some of the author's work is aided by the use of power tools. The pictures are good enough to inspire ideas, but what's more, she was kind enough to include templates in the back of some of her precious family heirlooms! I have definitely been inspired!
This is a good read with many good tips and tricks, as well. The author is very interesting and has a pretty unique life story, based on what he has included. I won't give anything away, but pick it up if you have the means!
A hatchet, a folding saw, and a knife is really all you need to get into this hobby. A nice chopping stump and a mallet are useful and nearly essential items, as well. You can make your own mallet, as I did, if you have a first three tools. You just need green wood and you're ready!
I got by with using a ceap hatchet for about a year before investing in a Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet, which is 100% quality but with a high price. When it comes to a saw, any saw will work. Bow saws, ripsaws, even hacksaws would work for rough-cutting blanks. I have a few folding saws that I use because I like the idea that they
I got by with using a ceap hatchet for about a year before investing in a Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet, which is 100% quality but with a high price. When it comes to a saw, any saw will work. Bow saws, ripsaws, even hacksaws would work for rough-cutting blanks. I have a few folding saws that I use because I like the idea that they are safely transportable. I prefer the Agawa Canyon Boreal 21 folding saw for harvesting green wood and making rough stop-cuts. I usually use a Bacho Laplander for more intricate cuts. Traditionally, I always keep a Silky Pocketboy in my vehicle for any non-scheduled, opportunistic harvesting.
My primary knife for the first two years was a MoraKniv Companion (high carbon steel), and I still use it intermittently today. The knife shown here is the Pathfinder Knife Shop Kephart, and is my favorite. The Kephart is made of 1095 high carbon steel. It has a sharp 90° spine for scraping wood for fire-making and other bushcraft task
My primary knife for the first two years was a MoraKniv Companion (high carbon steel), and I still use it intermittently today. The knife shown here is the Pathfinder Knife Shop Kephart, and is my favorite. The Kephart is made of 1095 high carbon steel. It has a sharp 90° spine for scraping wood for fire-making and other bushcraft tasks. It's a moderately-priced knife (around $100) and is of excellent quality (more than the price suggests). I stropped it dozens of times before I took it to the whetstone to achieve a mirror finish. The knife maintains its edge very well, especially if you are just whittling and you strop and oil it, regularly. Dave Canterbury is associated with the company, a man who has provided so much free knowledge over the years. As I said before, I am not sponsored, and I bought the knife myself. That being said, if you're looking for a quality, American-made knife, treat yourself to my personal favorite.
The knives shown above all happen to be Morakniv knives. MoraKniv make great "cheap" knifes with good steal. The company does a fantastic job at keeping the knifes as cheap as possible (usually around $20), while still maintaining Swedish quality standards. To my knowledge, with the exception of the Garberg (I have one in carbon steel,
The knives shown above all happen to be Morakniv knives. MoraKniv make great "cheap" knifes with good steal. The company does a fantastic job at keeping the knifes as cheap as possible (usually around $20), while still maintaining Swedish quality standards. To my knowledge, with the exception of the Garberg (I have one in carbon steel, and it's nice), none of their knives are full tang. This makes them lighter and more affordable. The hook knife on the left is one I use to produce almost all concavities in the utensils I make. The right hook knife is shallower and I don't use it as often. The Sloyd knife on the right is used for detailed cutting and for knife-finishing woodwork. Since they are in the photo, let me explain the crude, yet functional, pieces of wood on the right- they are coverings for the hook knives I made out of boxelder and black walnut. They are held together with ranger bands (pieces of inner tube).
Whittle'n'Fish
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